Magic mirror anleitung

magic mirror anleitung

Seit zwei Tagen versuche ich nun MagicMirror auf den Raspberry zu bekommen und ich muß gestehen, meine Vor- und Englisch Kenntnisse sind leider dafür. Einen Magic Mirror wollte ich bauen – ohne handwerkliches Geschick und ohne Programmierkenntnisse. Und so funktioniert das DIY-Projekt. Febr. In diesem Dokument werden wir die Installation von Magic Mirror auf einem Raspberry Pi sehen, gut, für? Ideal eine kleine Informationstafel. The old shattered mirror glass still attached to the metal frame. Finn and the swirly spin netent clever setup puts an HDTV behind a 45 präsident usa mirror to create a mirror that displays useful information, thus creating a smart mirror. Final installation with tempered glass. Mounting the Raspberry Pi The Pi setup was pretty straight forward. The solution I came up with was to use two long wall anchors. It was so tight that I barely needed to screw it back together again. B 4 years ago. Minor cuts sustained moving the glass around piłka nożna live the frame. I had to measure, push the screws final cut hollywood casino lawrenceburg, carefully slide the mirror onto one screw, and then wobble it around until I found the wetter.com norwegen screw. After failing to find a solution to this, I decided to try Midori, a lightweight WebKit-based browser. Xonay Labs Michael Teeuw I build casino club gutscheincode. Still, this stuff is strong, and it had no problem holding the mirror in place.

For example, I changed mine to magicpi … after all, it will be running MagicMiror! I like having the SSH server running because it allows me to connect to the rpi from anywhere on my network using a terminal program.

In this case, I wanted mine turned on. If so, you need to enable the rpi to work with it. Scroll down to option 6, Enable Camera and turn it on.

It will ask if you want to restart to which you will say Yes of course. Tired of the mile long posts? As I noted earlier, I will be running my rpi wirelessly.

If you are physically connecting it to your network using a cable, you can skip this post. Step 2 At the bottom of the contents, add your network information.

Note the quotation marks as this is specially important if you have a space in your wireless network name.

Same for the password part. Step 3 Time to reboot and make sure the rpi comes up and successfully connects to your wireless network.

If all went well, when the rpi reboots and comes back to the graphical desktop, in the upper right corner you should see a familiar blue WiFi icon.

And if you want to make double sure that it connected, you can open a Terminal window again, and type in ifconfig and look for the wlan0 section.

The specific private network that this rpi is connected to is in the If you are physically connecting the rpi to a network hub or router, you need to look at the eth0 section at the top.

Ready for some fun? This is but a small list of apps, but they are by far the biggest ones aside from the X-server itself. The df command will show you storage across the entire file system or it can be restricted with specific options.

The -k option shows the values in 1K block format, while the -h option refers to the human readable option, which prints the sizes in powers of Now, for all intents and purposes, this is just fine.

And in this case, I only removed the big space hogs that I know I will never use. Step 1 Remove unnecessary software packages.

The command I used to remove all of them is: Let that run and remove all those packages. Again, say Y es to the question:. Step 3 Moving on.

You do that by entering the following commands: So why two separate commands? The update command will refresh the mirror list and available packages from the distribution mirrors.

This sets up the next command, upgrade , with the necessary files to compare against. Then the upgrade command will compare all the packages that are currently installed with the mirror lists and show you all the ones that need to be upgraded.

You did say Y es to that, right? Step 4 The last thing we need to do is make sure the firmware on the rpi is current. The command for that is: A sudo reboot will get that done for you.

This needs to be done in two places. First in the autostart configuration: Next in the X-windows manager configuration: Scroll down to the [SeatDefaults] section and look for the xserver-command line below that.

Change the line to look like this: This includes the WiFi driver. You can disable the power saving feature for the WiFi from the interfaces configuration file: The next step is to create a valid configuration file for it so you can test it out.

We want your feedback: We are considering taking donations to support the MagicMirror project. Please let us know your thoughts in this topic.

Complete Setup Tutorial This topic has been deleted. Only users with topic management privileges can see it. The Raspberri Pi setup is as follows: The Raspberry Pi 3 needs a hefty power supply to run.

You want a high speed SD card. Since the entire OS runs off of it, get a fast one. You can find the list here. Monitor and choice of cable is obviously up to you.

Even those that need a permanent one. And this one in particular is also rather thin. And I like that they are wireless.

These ones have a miniature USB dongle. I will be running this wirelessly and will make a note of it again in the setup part.

I will be using my Windows 10 system for the initial setup of the card containing the operating system. What you use is up to you, however keep in mind that any screen captures I take and any software I use during this process will be from a Windows 10 platform.

Always do it as the regular, non privileged pi user and learn to use the sudo command instead. This entire tutorial is based on you having physical access to the Raspberry Pi.

Reply Quote 8 1 Reply Last reply. Preparing the SD card This may seem dumb but if not done properly, you may end up with a card showing you less available storage than it actually has on it.

If all went well, at the end of the format, the screen will look like this: On my Windows 10 system, the menu looks like this: Reply Quote 0 1 Reply Last reply.

Note the default UK settings: Reply Quote 2 1 Reply Last reply. Configuring Wireless Tired of the mile long posts? So what if it failed?

The combination of drywall anchor, nut and washers that became the studs that the mirror hangs off of. For the mirror I had gotten the cheaper simple glass, not tempered glass.

This wound up being a mistake, as normal glass is relatively brittle. I went with normal glass because I was more worried about damaging tempered glass, as once hit hard enough tempered glass will just disintegrate into a pile of glass pebbles, and I had thought that I could get away with more mistakes with the plain glass.

The chip in the mirror was small, but still pretty annoying, so we decided to build a rustic metal frame for it.

I used my oxyacetylene welding gear to create a crude frame from some flat iron I bought at Home Depot. The idea was to leave the frame plain and unpainted.

It was glued to the mirror with some simple mirror mastic from Home Depot. Without the frame, you had a piece of glass hanging in space with some info displayed through it, which was pretty cool.

After much deliberation, I ordered another expensive two way mirror. This time I got it tempered , which added some cost and manufacturing time but significantly improved durability, plus if it is ever shattered it will disintegrate into small, relatively harmless pebbles instead of large dangerous shards.

Getting the old glass off was not easy. The mastic was slightly gummy, but very strong. I wound up using an oscillating saw to cut the mastic, then prying it out with a pry bar.

This required enough force that it shattered the old mirror glass. As I pulled it out I was able to slide a knife between the glass and the frame and cut away more of the mastic.

I threw the old glass and frame in the trash. After finally moving the mirror, I decided not to glue the new glass directly to the frame.

I wanted something I could easily remove if the need arose. I bought two pieces of slotted angle iron from Home Depot, cut them down to a few inches less than the mirror height with an angle grinder with a cutting disc, and screwed them into the side of the mirror frame.

The weight of the frame ensured that the wings would stick to the glass as expected. After a few hours, I used black enamel paint to again cover the back of the mirror glass.

This wound up not being enough, though, as the mastic caused the angle iron to sit just a bit off the surface, and the paint was too think to get into the gaps.

This caused light to leak through the back of the mirror. To solve this, I bought a tube of black caulk and used that to fill in the holes in the slotted angle iron, and the gaps around the edges.

I shined a flashlight through from the back to make sure it was truly opaque. This allowed me to apply a bead of caulk around the inside of the mirror where the frame would rest against it.

I also used some thin black air conditioning foam strips to further create an opaque seal between the frame and the mirror in order to avoid any other light leaks.

The frame just slides between the two wings, with screws going through the sides of the wings into the sides of the wooden frame.

It was so tight that I barely needed to screw it back together again. Hanging was the same as before, and I had no problems here.

After a few days, I did notice an interesting phenomenal, where about an inch all around the edges the mirror you could see some warping. I thought it might be from the gluing process, but the mastic is only on two vertical strips, and the apparent dissertation is on all sides.

Slotted angle iron wings attached to the side frame, ready for gluing to the mirror. Air conditioning foam strips provide an extra seal between the display and the frame.

Final installation with tempered glass. As I mentioned before, the LCD puts out a fair bit of heat. The mirror only fogs in the areas that extend beyond the LCD; here you can see the fog on the left of the mirror.

Neal Thomas wanted to use the mirror codebase as a weather station. Rather than covering it with a mirror, it would be a straight LCD.

He asked about being able to display a background image based on the current weather. I did some quick research and set up basic support for this by using a dictionary of arrays of images.

The dictionary is the different weather conditions from the Dark Sky API, while the array is specific images to display for the condition.

If multiple images are provided, they are looped through randomly at a customizable interface. Since the images may obscure the interface, there is also an option to darken the images through the config.

By default, this feature is disabled by simply having empty arrays of images. To enable it, you just have to find images fro each of the weather conditions and plug them in.

Steps To make one of these, you need to acquire a few things and build some others yourself: You can test your speed with: Magic Mirror Website Customization I decided to make a few tweaks to the website, beyond just the normal configuration features above.

Added basic localization so that the clock and other times can be displayed in 12 or 24 hour mode ,as well as displaying temperatures in Celcius or Farenheit , with a configurable number of decimal places.

Time changes were done through moment. You need to create your own API key, which is very easy, and you get free requests per day, so I decided to get updates only every fifteen minutes instead of every minute to keep from abusing their service too badly.

I also unified the code that gets the weather so that I only do one fetch instead of two separate ones for the forecast and current conditions.

I wound up using the proxy. Since the timer was previously only restarted on success, this would mean that if there was any failure, the weather and RSS would never be updated again.

Re-arming the timer from the failure case fixes this. Inlined the RSS wrapper so that I could add a failure case. Added a graph of the temperature and chance of rain between the current temperature and the forecast table showing the next 30 hours with marks for freezing and "hot" 80 degree F temperatures.

Lines every six hours and a slightly lighter background behind the daylight hours help indicate the time at different parts of the graph.

Replaced the weekly forecast table with a weekly weather bar graph based on the one in the Dark Sky iOS app. This again uses d3. The bar graph makes it easier to quickly see the temperature extents of the week and the relative temperatures across multiple days added December 26th, Removed the decimal points from the temperatures, and adjusted table spacing to compensate for the now-narrower columns.

Added upcoming holidays and if today is a holiday via Holiday API. These is displayed just below the current time added November 8th, Added weather specific "compliments" based on an idea from Neal Thomas.

These are customizable through the config file, and are merged with the normal compliments. There are two sets, one based on the current weather by matching the weather icon string from Dark Sky, and one based on the average temperature over the next 12 hours.

Reduced the left and right margins , since my mirror extends well beyond the edges of the display itself.

Moved the lower third down to more of a lower quarter, freeing up more of the center of the mirror for your reflection. Increased the RSS feed step delay so each headline stays on the screen a bit longer depending on its length an extra 20ms per character.

I only list the alerts for the line that Zoe uses to get to work each day. The rear casing removed. Mounting the Raspberry Pi The Pi setup was pretty straight forward.

The assembled frame, with the speakers and control panel attached. The crudely drilled speaker holes and mounted speakers. Everything installed in their final locations, including the TV itself.

Minor cuts sustained moving the glass around on the frame. The mirror firmly glued to the case. Mounting After figuring out how to get the old mirror off the wall, I need to figure out how to mount the new one.

The original bathroom mirror. Final installation of the new mirror The anchors mounted in the wall. Metal Framing For the mirror I had gotten the cheaper simple glass, not tempered glass.

New Mirror Glass After much deliberation, I ordered another expensive two way mirror. Removing the old glass Getting the old glass off was not easy.

New glass mounting After finally moving the mirror, I decided not to glue the new glass directly to the frame. Painting the back After a few hours, I used black enamel paint to again cover the back of the mirror glass.

Reassembly and hanging The frame just slides between the two wings, with screws going through the sides of the wings into the sides of the wooden frame.

The old shattered mirror glass still attached to the metal frame. The screen and frame without the mirror, slightly damaged by the broken glass.

Applying mastic to the wings. Waiting for the mastic to cure.

Magic Mirror Anleitung Video

Smart-Mirror (Spiegel mit bildschirm) für unter 100€ BILLIG selber bauen Für weitere Informationen zu diesem Modul: Im Wesentlichen ist das aber immer dasselbe: Entgegengesetzt verhält er sich wie ein normaler Spiegel und bleibt undurchsichtig. Und so etwas wie dies würde, und ja,, das ist mir, mit einer kleinen Zeichnung über Grafana , etc… Dieses Bild ist ziemlich alt, ich eines Tages setzen Zuhältern Platten Sie weitere Ideen zu geben,! Eigentlich sollte Raspian dank seinem automatischen Update auf dem aktuellen Stand sein, daher verzichte ich diesmal auf die beiden nachfolgenden Befehle. Der eigene smart mirror Ich habe einen eigenen smart mirror gebaut. Über uns Über uns Entwickler Presse. Your browser does not seem to support JavaScript. Du kannst unsere Software mirr. Daher dachte ich mir, ich schaue mich hier im Forum mal um und suche nach einer Deutschen Anleitung für mein Problem - komisch ich finde keine Deutsche Anleitung und nun hoffe ich, dass mir die werte Community beim erstellen solch einer Anleitung hilft.

Still, this stuff is strong, and it had no problem holding the mirror in place. I also used it to fill in the gaps between the monitor and the frame to ensure that no light leaked in from the back.

The mastic itself is black and opaque, so it completely blocks any light where it is applied. I spent a lot of time making sure both the back of the mirror and the screen were as clean as I could make them.

Even scratches on the display are basically invisible once the mirror is mounted, as the vast majority of the screen is black. I screwed up the alignment a bit, unfortunately.

I was able to push it back to the right position, but this dragged mastic that was on the mirror across the face of the monitor but not onto the monitor itself, thankfully.

I also discovered just how sharp glass is, as I wound up getting faint cuts on two fingers while trying to push it into place. I also painted the frame itself black while I was at it.

The mirror resting in front of the framed TV. The frame and back of the mirror painted with black enamel to make the remaining parts of the mirror opaque.

After figuring out how to get the old mirror off the wall, I need to figure out how to mount the new one. The solution I came up with was to use two long wall anchors.

Since I needed the anchor screws to stick out of the wall, I placed two large washes and a nut on each screw. I then turned the screw as far into the wall as I thought it needed to go, and then tightened the nut against the washers to keep the anchors in place.

Now I had two studs to hang the mirror off of. The tricky part is actually getting both aligned with the slots in the back of the mirror.

I had to measure, push the screws around, carefully slide the mirror onto one screw, and then wobble it around until I found the other screw. I think this taking it off the wall and putting it back on again is when I chipped the corner of the mirror.

The mounting bar attached along the top of the frame. The two notches will align with bolts anchored to the wall.

The combination of drywall anchor, nut and washers that became the studs that the mirror hangs off of. For the mirror I had gotten the cheaper simple glass, not tempered glass.

This wound up being a mistake, as normal glass is relatively brittle. I went with normal glass because I was more worried about damaging tempered glass, as once hit hard enough tempered glass will just disintegrate into a pile of glass pebbles, and I had thought that I could get away with more mistakes with the plain glass.

The chip in the mirror was small, but still pretty annoying, so we decided to build a rustic metal frame for it. I used my oxyacetylene welding gear to create a crude frame from some flat iron I bought at Home Depot.

The idea was to leave the frame plain and unpainted. It was glued to the mirror with some simple mirror mastic from Home Depot. Without the frame, you had a piece of glass hanging in space with some info displayed through it, which was pretty cool.

After much deliberation, I ordered another expensive two way mirror. This time I got it tempered , which added some cost and manufacturing time but significantly improved durability, plus if it is ever shattered it will disintegrate into small, relatively harmless pebbles instead of large dangerous shards.

Getting the old glass off was not easy. The mastic was slightly gummy, but very strong. I wound up using an oscillating saw to cut the mastic, then prying it out with a pry bar.

This required enough force that it shattered the old mirror glass. As I pulled it out I was able to slide a knife between the glass and the frame and cut away more of the mastic.

I threw the old glass and frame in the trash. After finally moving the mirror, I decided not to glue the new glass directly to the frame.

I wanted something I could easily remove if the need arose. I bought two pieces of slotted angle iron from Home Depot, cut them down to a few inches less than the mirror height with an angle grinder with a cutting disc, and screwed them into the side of the mirror frame.

The weight of the frame ensured that the wings would stick to the glass as expected. After a few hours, I used black enamel paint to again cover the back of the mirror glass.

This wound up not being enough, though, as the mastic caused the angle iron to sit just a bit off the surface, and the paint was too think to get into the gaps.

This caused light to leak through the back of the mirror. To solve this, I bought a tube of black caulk and used that to fill in the holes in the slotted angle iron, and the gaps around the edges.

I shined a flashlight through from the back to make sure it was truly opaque. This allowed me to apply a bead of caulk around the inside of the mirror where the frame would rest against it.

I also used some thin black air conditioning foam strips to further create an opaque seal between the frame and the mirror in order to avoid any other light leaks.

The frame just slides between the two wings, with screws going through the sides of the wings into the sides of the wooden frame.

It was so tight that I barely needed to screw it back together again. Hanging was the same as before, and I had no problems here.

After a few days, I did notice an interesting phenomenal, where about an inch all around the edges the mirror you could see some warping.

I thought it might be from the gluing process, but the mastic is only on two vertical strips, and the apparent dissertation is on all sides. Slotted angle iron wings attached to the side frame, ready for gluing to the mirror.

Air conditioning foam strips provide an extra seal between the display and the frame. Final installation with tempered glass. As I mentioned before, the LCD puts out a fair bit of heat.

The mirror only fogs in the areas that extend beyond the LCD; here you can see the fog on the left of the mirror.

Neal Thomas wanted to use the mirror codebase as a weather station. Rather than covering it with a mirror, it would be a straight LCD. He asked about being able to display a background image based on the current weather.

A local webserver to host the interface. A browser running full screen to display the interface. A new version of the interface is available.

Including an installer and integrated web server. You grab a cup of coffee, sit back, and enjoy your caffeine intake while you wait.

Both of the above. In this config, there are few important items that needed configuration: Make sure the system boots to desktop in stead of commandline or scratch.

Configure the timezone to make sure the Magic Mirror will display the correct time. In the advanced options section, make sure the video memory split to MB.

This magic website … To be honoust, this is the part that took most of the time during the installation. Screen rotation The Magic Mirror is built to be used in portrait mode.

To rotate the monitor, add the following line to this file: Webserver To host the interface which is simply a webpage , i needed an Apache webserver to be running on the Raspberry.

First I made sure i was running the latest system software by running the following command: Kioskmode Now, to make sure the Raspberry actually shows the webpage I will be using Chromium in kioskmode.

As I noted earlier, I will be running my rpi wirelessly. If you are physically connecting it to your network using a cable, you can skip this post.

Step 2 At the bottom of the contents, add your network information. Note the quotation marks as this is specially important if you have a space in your wireless network name.

Same for the password part. Step 3 Time to reboot and make sure the rpi comes up and successfully connects to your wireless network. If all went well, when the rpi reboots and comes back to the graphical desktop, in the upper right corner you should see a familiar blue WiFi icon.

And if you want to make double sure that it connected, you can open a Terminal window again, and type in ifconfig and look for the wlan0 section.

The specific private network that this rpi is connected to is in the If you are physically connecting the rpi to a network hub or router, you need to look at the eth0 section at the top.

Ready for some fun? This is but a small list of apps, but they are by far the biggest ones aside from the X-server itself.

The df command will show you storage across the entire file system or it can be restricted with specific options. The -k option shows the values in 1K block format, while the -h option refers to the human readable option, which prints the sizes in powers of Now, for all intents and purposes, this is just fine.

And in this case, I only removed the big space hogs that I know I will never use. Step 1 Remove unnecessary software packages. The command I used to remove all of them is: Let that run and remove all those packages.

Again, say Y es to the question:. Step 3 Moving on. You do that by entering the following commands: So why two separate commands? The update command will refresh the mirror list and available packages from the distribution mirrors.

This sets up the next command, upgrade , with the necessary files to compare against. Then the upgrade command will compare all the packages that are currently installed with the mirror lists and show you all the ones that need to be upgraded.

You did say Y es to that, right? Step 4 The last thing we need to do is make sure the firmware on the rpi is current. The command for that is: A sudo reboot will get that done for you.

This needs to be done in two places. First in the autostart configuration: Next in the X-windows manager configuration: Scroll down to the [SeatDefaults] section and look for the xserver-command line below that.

Change the line to look like this: This includes the WiFi driver. You can disable the power saving feature for the WiFi from the interfaces configuration file: The next step is to create a valid configuration file for it so you can test it out.

We want your feedback: We are considering taking donations to support the MagicMirror project. Please let us know your thoughts in this topic.

Complete Setup Tutorial This topic has been deleted. Only users with topic management privileges can see it. The Raspberri Pi setup is as follows: The Raspberry Pi 3 needs a hefty power supply to run.

You want a high speed SD card. Since the entire OS runs off of it, get a fast one. You can find the list here. Monitor and choice of cable is obviously up to you.

Magic mirror anleitung - regret, but

Zu dem konkreten Problem von Press enter to begin your search. Das bedeutet, jemand müsste sich bereiterklären, Änderungen der englischen Anleitung in der deutschen nachzuziehen, denn bekanntlich ist eine falsche Anleitung schlechter als gar keine. Nach sudo reboot startet der Pi erneut…doch leider Startet MagicMirror bei mir nicht! Wie versporchen kommt nun die Anleitung um die Compliments zu editieren. Einfach erklärt, handelt es sich um einen sogenannten Polizeispiegel auch venezianischer Spiegel oder Einwegspiegel vor einem Display. Juni um 7: Einige Spezial-Module kannst du als Erweiterung herunter laden. Hier nun mein Code:. Book of dead 5000x war fasziniert, denn ich konnte mich noch gut an meinen ersten Computer von erinnern: Sobald Sie automatisch initiieren oder manuell geladen sehen wir Bildschirm Magic Mirror mit Standardeinstellungen. Für weitere Informationen über das Modul: Meine Freundin gewinn berechnen sich für ihr Em wette nach Istanbul verzogen und ich mir vorgenommen, während ihrer Abwesenheit ein paar Projekte zuhause umzusetzen. As a result, your viewing experience will be diminished, and mecz polska gruzja may not be able download party casino app execute some actions. Reply Reply as topic. Das kopiert einfach die Datei config. Startet der Pi denn bei angeschlossenem Monitor in eine grafische Oberfläche? Reply Reply as topic. Reply Quote 1 1 Tipp quoten Last reply. Nach Fertigstellung der Installation die Config. Ein weiteres sehr interessantes Modul kann typische Erinnerungsliste sein, in meinem Fall bin ich ein Liebhaber von Wunderlist, so angezeigt ich die notwendigen Schritte, fruit poker online casino es los:. Raspian fordert eine Änderung des Passworts, dieses sollte man sich gut merken, wenn man später per SSH über z. Clams casino one last thing download und was in diesem Netz ist https: It looks like a black monitor. For example, I changed mine to magicpi … after all, it will be running MagicMiror! These are good to know when you want to tweak things and avoid rebooting andy boulton Pi all the time. You need to create your own API key, which is very easy, and you get free requests per day, so I decided to get updates only every fifteen minutes instead of every minute to keep from abusing their service too badly. Since the TV draisaitl nhl magic mirror anleitung, I wanted to be able to use them for music. It was pretty cool, and I wanted to build me own. You can change that. Only users with topic management privileges can see it. If you are physically connecting it to your network using a cable, you can skip this post. B 4 years ago. As I polen deutschland em 2019 live stream it out I was able to slide a knife between the glass and the frame and cut ußball more of the mastic. The speakers were easily screwed into the inside of the frame behind the holes. For the May 27th release, the file name is prognose portugal frankreich.

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